What is Glycolic Acid, and how can it help my skin?

What is Glycolic acid, and how can it help my skin? 

We are always looking for the best, natural ways to protect and improve our skin tone, and maintain our youth while looking and feeling fresh-faced. There are countless products on the market which can be utterly overwhelming, especially when new trends come along and we are left wondering what we should do next! Of course each individual needs to find the right skin routine for them, but there are general pillars of skin care that everyone needs to consider. Hydration, sun protection, exfoliation, cleansing and moisturising being a few staple necessities. 

Glycolic acid has been around since the mid eighteen-hundreds (not a new fangled fad), however of late it has become something of a buzz word in the cosmetic industry for its positive effects on the skin and cell rejuvenation. So, here we take a good look into the properties, benefits and effects of glycolic acid as an element within skincare products, and what it could do for you. 

What is Glycolic Acid? 

In scientific and literal terms, Glycolic Acid is hydroxyacetic (or hydroacetic acid), chemical formula HOCH₂CO₂H - a colourless, odourless and hygroscopic crystalline solid which is soluble in water. Named by French chemist Auguste Laurent in 1848, the acid went on to first be prepared in 1851 by chemists Adolph Strecker and Nikolai Nikolaevich Sokolov. Since then, as scary as it sounds to be putting acid on your skin, Glycolic acid has become a wonder in the world of skincare.

What does that mean in layman’s terms? Glycolic acid is a popular Alpha Hydroxy Acid (AHA), these are derived from plants and other natural sources such as fruits, milk and sugar cane. AHAs are used in a variety of skincare products like cleansers, toners and scrubs. 

How does Glycolic Acid work? 

AHAs are naturally occurring acids that have small molecules which our skin can easily absorb. This makes them a prime ingredient in anti-aging products as well as to aid with pigmentation, and enlarged pores. Glycolic acid is derived from sugar cane and is one of the most widely used AHAs in skin care products, it has the smallest molecules of all AHAs which allows optimal exfoliation and absorption into the skin. 

Glycolic acid works by increasing the speed at which out cells rejuvenate or replace themselves. It works by dissolving the ‘glue’ that holds skin cells together - meaning that by using glycolic acid we can shed our dead skin cells faster than we would do so alone. 

Collagen is the main topic of conversation when it comes to skin volume and elasticity, as we age our bodies gradually slow down the production of it. Sun damage also destroys collagen - glycolic can encourage the skin to make collagen as well as prevent the breakdown of it, and so helps to revive its plumpness. Collagen also provides strength for bones and connective tissues. 

Glycolic Acid can help our skin by hydrating it, smoothing out fine lines and wrinkles, improving our skin tone and texture, reducing the effects of sun damage, brighten the skin, reducing pre size, preventing ingrowing hairs, shed dead skin cells quickly, clear out pores which can help with spots and acne. 

Contrary to some reports, within a skin care ointment or cream, Glycolic Acid will not remove scars, it can have an effect on pigmentation  (such as slightly lightening a darkened patch of wounded skin), and improve a raised or pitted scar but will not remove them completely. 

Where can I buy Glycolic Acid, and in which format?

There are plenty of over the counter options when it comes to choosing your product containing glycolic acid, generally these will come in varying strengths up to 10%. There are also stronger versions (up to 30%) which are present in a light chemical peel, though these are not advisable at home but by a professional practitioner or aesthetician. A dermatologist can administer an even stronger chemical peel including glycolic acid of up to 70% strength. 

The format in which you choose to apply glycolic acid to the skin completely depends on your personal skin type and needs. You may simply be content with an over the counter product containing a light percentage of glycolic acid to brighten your skin and give you a healthy glow, to give a smoother skin texture, prevent breakouts and even reduce fine lines. Other skin types may require a more professional approach and a stronger treatment. 

How to choose your treatment…

If you have a specific skin problem or issue such as acne, sun spots, pigmentation spots, wrinkles, etc., then a professional chemical peel may be more appropriate and effective for you. Results are faster and more intense due to the higher percentage of glycolic acid within the treatment. Your skin would need to be tested as the risk of irritation is higher the larger the percentage. 

As well as the percentage of glycolic acid, the pH level in the product must be considered. The more acidic the product used is, the more effective the results will be - no matter the amount of glycolic acid. 

Is it safe to use Glycolic Acid on my skin?

For the most part, the answer is yes. If using an over the counter product, unless you happen to be allergic or super sensitive to the product, there should be no risk in using something containing glycolic acid. However, there are things we should know before using it. 

Sunscreen is vital to your skin’s protection, but even more important if you are using glycolic acid treatments. AHAs in general give your skin added sensitivity to the sun, especially glycolic acid and so a high protection UVA and UVB sunscreen is necessary at all times. 

Our skin can take some time to adapt to using glycolic acid, so gradually build up the use of it over time. Beginning at 2/3 times a week and moving up to 4/5 if there is no sign of irritation, for example. Slowly increase over time until you can use it daily. If at any moment the skin becomes irritated then stop for a rest and begin the process again after a week or so at a lesser level. 

When it comes to clinical chemical peels the practitioner will also start off with a lower percentage of glycolic acid for your first treatment, and if all is well, the follow ups may be increased to a higher percentage. 

If you experience rougher feeling skin to start off with, but no irritation at all, this is usually a normal reaction and means the acid is working, in a short amount of time the skin will become smoother and healthy-looking. 

You should not use in conjunction with other strong exfoliants such as topical retinoids like Retin-A, Differin, Accutane, etc. Always check with your dermatologist before trying a new product. 

Can I use Glycolic acid if I have sensitive skin?

If your skin is of the sensitive variety and can become aggravated by certain products, glycolic acid could be one them. In this case it is advised that it is still possible to get positive effects and benefits from the properties of glycolic acid, you just have to select a product which has a low percentage and preferably those which do not sit on the skin or have intense contact with the skin; i.e. skin wipes/pads or a soap that contain a low glycolic acid percentage - these do not absorb into the skin to potentially irritate.  The most important factor for sensitive skin is to regulate pH levels, these product examples will not negatively affect sensitive skin and still increase the cellular turnover. 

Again, you should not use in conjunction with other strong exfoliants such as topical retinoids like Retin-A, Differin, Accutane, etc. Always check with your dermatologist before trying a new product, especially with a sensitive skin type. 

Does Glycolic Acid affect pigmentation of the skin? Are darker skin types at risk? 

No, Glycolic Acid does not affect pigmentation, though, again if the skin is sensitive the percentage of the glycolic acid should be low and opt for using low absorption options  (see sensitive skin response above). 

What are the best non-surgical treatments for aging neck?

I prefer not to have surgery, so what can I do about my aging neck? 

When it comes to aging, the neck can be a troublesome area that often lets out our secrets!

We may have smoothed out those frown lines, bunny lines, or plumped up the cheeks and lips a little to defy the signs

of aging, but the neck tends to tell another story if left unattended. It is also a tricky area to treat, and heavily depends

on the individual as to what would be the most effective procedure/s to keep it looking young, smooth and taut. 

To rejuvenate the neck area in a non-surgical manner, there are many questions your practitioner will have to address;

are we able to treat the neck alone? Are we going to have to include treatment to the mid-face, temple, lower face in

order to achieve the desired results? Which combination of treatments is right for this particular neck (and face)? In

other words, are we rejuvenating the whole area, or can we focus on simply the neck alone? This depends on a whole

host of factors that vary from person to person, so an in-depth consultation will be required prior to receiving any

treatment. A combination of treatments may well be the way forward. 

The skin on the neck is quite different to that of the face and so to create a smooth transition between the two is

essential for a natural appearance. Your practitioner will focus on the severity of the aging of the skin in the neck area,

they will also inspect the level of laxity of the skin, the intensity of lines on the neck, from skin to bone and in relation

to the whole face and neck area, including bone structure, volume, and then assess which need to be treated, in what

order, and using which procedures. 

“After 20 years working with lasers and other technologies my conclusion is that no tech is good enough alone.

There is always more than one layer to be treated and more than one target to be hit in order to achieve a holistic result” 

Gabriela Casabona MD. Aesthetic Department, Ocean Clinic, Marbella. 

If a non-invasive procedure is the goal then the following treatments, and quite often a combination of more than one

(as they work in unison to create optimum results), can be used to treat an aging neck. The following are treatments

offered at Ocean Clinic, Marbella which, after intense studying and continuous analysis, prove to be the most effective and state-of-the-art procedures

for this specific demand. Depending on your individual situation, the following procedures and treatments could be on

the list of those contributing to your overall neck aging solutions: 

“Here at Ocean Clinic Marbella, the idea is to use different technologies in one session to offer 3d results in less sessions.

According to recent publications the combinations also have a boosting effect when the goal is new collagen and elastin

stimulation”.

Gabriela Casabona MD. Aesthetic Department, Ocean Clinic, Marbella.

Ultherapy®

Non surgical lifting and how to enhance collagen are the most asked questions concerning non invasive procedures.

Neocollagenesis: to induce collagen or new collagen fibers are the most used expressions to translate what technology can

bring, not only to our skin layer, but also to the deeper layers such as subcutaneous areas. Ultherapy uses focused ultrasound to

heat and generate micro-coagulation zones at different depths. The micro-coagulation zones trigger a direct and indirect

effect on fibroblasts inducing new collagen and elastin production. It is a precise and effective way of really bringing enough

new collagen and elastin to achieve a satisfactory clinical result. Microfocused ultrasound is the best and most versatile

heat technology that can bring new collagen and elastin to 3 different depths, different densities and is approved as a non

surgical lifting tool.

Our secret in using Ultherapy is:

• 1) Ultrasound to visualize and customize our protocols according to each area treated and each patient.

• 2) Use a potent numbing cream creating a comfortable treatment according to each patient's sensitivity to pain.

• 3) Use of treatment in combination with others, if necessary, to achieve the desired result.

At Ocean Clinic, Marbella we believe that neocollagenesis at all levels and layers is one of the pillars of our 3-dimensional approach to restore a

youthful look- from skin texture to a tight subcutaneous layer -  a great way to fight the effect of gravity that worsens with

age.

MFU-V treatments have no downtime. Results can last from 1 – 1.5 years depending on the severity and area treated.

It can be used as a preventive tool or as an antiaging treatment. Depending on severity, vectors and depth of tissue layers

it can be used alone as a lifting treatment for face, neck, chest or body areas, or combined with other treatments such as;

injectable fillers, ipl/lasers, cosmetic injections, microneedling, body tightening, biostimulators - radiesse dilute, fat grafting, post surgical maintenance.

There is no need for preparation nor specific aftercare.

Absorbable threads

What is a thread lift? Does it substitute a surgery? Are they absorbable and what can be expected?

The thread lift with absorbable threads has been on the market for many years but its use requires a highly detailed plan and

an experienced physician to guarantee the best aesthetic result and duration. There are two different types of threads on the

market:

• 1) Poly lactic acid (silhouette) which are bi-directional threads that use cones to create lift

• 2) PDO threads (anchor, barb) that can be used at many depths- from dermis to subcutaneous - and are unidirectional

• using barbs to create lift or simply collagen stimulation in more superficial layers of skin.

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The treatment is fast, safe and has an immediate effect but does not substitute a surgery in the power of its lifting effect or

duration (12-18 months). It is very good as a single tool for very mild cases when the patient has not lost volume and has a

good skin thickness, or as a complementary treatment combined with fillers, cosmetic injections or other technology. 

It can be used in the face, neck or other areas such as arms, gluteus and abdomen. 

It does not require preparation and downtime is between 3-7 days. 

Relative rest is recommended especially for body areas.

 Injectable Fillers

One of the first and more important points of facial aging is the loss of bone structure, this can begin as early as age 25.

Our team believes that volume and structure restoration are fundamental pillars of a 3-dimensional approach for facial

rejuvenation. The bone structure and the facial fat compartments are responsible for the shape, projection and proportion of

a young and beautiful looking face. This is an important factor when it comes to neck rejuvenation as the neck is a reflection

of all the structures above it; temples, malar and jawline. 

These layers are directly related to facial vectoring and play an important role in supporting the soft tissues against gravity.

With age we lose projection of these bone and fat structures which affects, not only the youthful appearance, but also alters

the facial proportions. The maxilla starts to become less projected which reflects in the eversion of the lip, the cheeks starts

to lose projection - which can reflect deepening of the lower eyelid/ cheek junction, resulting in a more tired look. Many

other changes occur in this direction, resulting in an aged look. 

Our goal is not only to rejuvenate but also slow down the anatomic aging process by enhancing soft tissue support. Our

approach is therefore to use this powerful tool to prevent or restore a fresher and younger look to the face and neck.

What to know before injectable filler treatment

We prefer to use only absorbable and biocompatible products due to the high rate of possible complications of all other

non-absorbable and less biocompatible types of fillers. Normally injectable fillers have no downtime and very low rate of

complications, if the patient is well selected and follows the aftercare recommendations. The results last up to 2 years

depending on the area treated, product brand and type. Filler treatments can be performed alone or combined with other

procedures like: cosmetic injections, microfocused ultrasound/ Ulthera, IPL / laser, superficial peelings,bio stimulators, or even facelift surgery as a maintenance or as a preparative treatment.

There is no need for skin preparation before the treatment. As aftercare, our team recommends not to exercise on the same

day to diminish the risk of bruising in the injected areas.

IPL / Laser treatments

There are numerous signs of aged or unhealthy skin: sun spots, lack of collagen, large pores, thick or rough skin texture,

hyper- or hypopigmented areas, superficial wrinkles and many more. Over the last years many new technologies were

introduced to the aesthetic market aiming to treat, or at least control, such conditions.

At Ocean Clinic we consider the treatment of every layer of the skin an important pillar of a 3-dimensional rejuvenation

process. There are many different cellular structures that play a role in skin aging, such as melanocytes (they produce the

melanin pigment), vessels, immunologic cells and the famous elastic fibers of the skin (collagen/elastin). Any rejuvenation

treatment should be very selective when treating those structures to avoid damage to other structures, this is why we believe

in a multi-level, multi-technology approach for our anti-ageing and skin rejuvenations treatments.

What to know before IPL / laser treatments

• IPL (Limelight xeo® CUTERA) - optimal to treat skin redness and pigment disorders.

• YAG long pulse (xeo® CUTERA) - used to treat telangiectasias (spider veins) and small vessels.

• YAG micropulse (Genesis xeo® CUTERA) - targets hyperpigmentation disorders and produces skin tightening by

• stimulation of collagen fibers.

• Non Ablative Fractionated Erbium Glass (Fraxel®) - addresses pigment disorders, large pores, stretch marks and scars.

• Ablative RF (Venus Viva™) - used for skin tightening, stimulation of collagen / elastin fibers and treatment of pigment

• disorders, stretch marks and scars.

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The rate of complications with IPL / Laser treatments is very low when the right conditions are addressed with adequate

technology. In some patients skin preparation is needed before a treatment, especially in patients with darker skin or

melasma. The aftercare is very important and each technology has specific recommendations that our team will explain to

you.

Different IPL / Laser treatments can be used together and in some cases be combined with other procedures such as

superficial peelings, or skinbooster / filler treatments.

Bio Stimulators

Recently, the use of injectable bio stimulators, such as Radiesse, in a hyperdiluted form has increased. In this form, it is a

biostimulatory agent, rather than a volumizing filler, and it improves skin quality, texture, tone and firmness. It can be used

in the face, neck, décolletage as well as other areas of the body.

 

Biostimulators treat the loss of volume as well as tightening the skin at the same time. They work by stimulating the body

to produce its own collagen and so work in a natural way to produce firmer, more plump skin and a more youthful appearance. 

At Ocean Clinic we use Radiesse Dilute - this can be used in combination with other procedures and treatments, please see

the guidelines as mentioned above for injectable fillers. 

 

The use of injectable neuromodulators, is one of the most important tools among minimally invasive rejuvenation

procedures.

Nowadays there are many different injectables, each one having different properties and effects for different areas and

patients. Muscle education is one of the pillars of our 3d approach to rejuvenation. The muscle movements used in facial

and neck mimics play a very important role in facial and neck aging. The muscles are directly related to facial expression

such as: smiling, kissing, frowning etc.

As we age we lose bone structure, fat volume and skin density - these not only support muscle movement, but also add so

resistance to its movements. As we age the skin starts to reflect every move and so dynamic and static wrinkles begin to

appear. One of our aims is not only to rejuvenate, but also to have a preventative approach to the aging process. Our team’s

goal is to use this powerful tool to restore a fresher and younger look to facial mimics. Our secret is to customize the plan

of application and dose to each patient, according to patterns of contraction and muscle force so the toxin can offer optimal

duration alongside a natural effect.

What to know beforehand

Typically, these treatments have no downtime. The duration is approx 4-6 months depending on area treated, the amount

injected and the loss of fat volume in the specific area. It is an excellent procedure alone or simultaneously combined with

other procedures such as: injectable fillers, skin boosters, ipl, superficial peelings.

There is no need for preparation but our team recommends that if women plan on having eyebrow tattoos the treatment

should be done 15 days prior. The aftercare is simple - our only recommendations are not to rub the treated area, or exercise

for 24 hours after the procedure.

To find out more about our combined treatments or any other procedures available at Ocean Clinic, please contact us today

for a consultation.